Traditionally the Summer Lunch is one of the most popular events in the Commanderie calendar but this year it had an added significance as we celebrated the introduction of our new Maître into his role. The Grand Maître, Jean Marc Dulong, and Edinburgh Maître, Bruce Minto, joined a full house of Commandeurs and Partners including two former Maîtres for this special occasion.
The weather was mild and dry as we gathered on the terrace to enjoy a taste of Wimbledon (Lanson champagne which was greatly enjoyed) before moving into the dining room for the ceremonies. Maître Colin Smith welcomed guests and members and reflected on the events and friendships of his 5 years in office before passing over to the Grand Maître. Jean Marc thanked Colin for all his work and in his witty and entertaining speech the self-styled Grand Fromage commented on the changing world of Bordeaux wine and on the expanding role of the Commanderie worldwide. He then formally inducted Commandeur Andy Bacon as our new Maître.
After grace was given by former Maître Sir Netar Mallick, who gave thanks for all the blessings enjoyed by the Commanderie, the company sat down to a very pretty starter of sesame crusted tuna with avocado and radish accompanied by C de Sec du Château Closiot 2022. The wine was much appreciated, and although some worried that the it might overpower the food happily it turned out to be a perfect match.
The main course of fillet steak, rib and cheddar croquette, celeriac puree and fine beans was equally well served by the stunning Clos Fourtet 2012, Premier Grand Cru Classé St Émilion. Clos Fourtet is highly regarded in St Emilion, although new to many members, and was acclaimed as the wine of the day. It was at its best – long with great finesse and balance of fruit and tannin and showing how outstanding wines can be produced in relatively lighter vintages.
With the cheese course of brie and cheddar we were served Château Sociando-Mallet 2009, A.O.C. Haut- Médoc – a high-performing estate from a superb vintage which was enjoyed for its full body and fruit but on this occasion was somewhat over-shadowed by the previous red.
The dessert of Lemon & elderflower cake, lemon drizzle, summer berry mousse and berries was a work of art on the plate and tasted as good as it looked. With it we drank Château Doisy-Daëne 2016, 2ième Cru Classé A.O.C. Sauternes which was in excellent condition – rich without being cloying and with plenty of life left in it – and complemented the dessert very well.
After the loyal toast and the toast to Bordeaux it was the end of the formal part of an excellent lunch although many members continued to chat and socialise well into the evening, before at least in some cases, preparing for the early morning ordeal of the other great occasion of the day – the England vs Mexico World Cup game. However for reports of that particular event the reader will have to look elsewhere.

