The Manchester Commanderie moved to a new venue for its 2026 Annual General Meeting, starting in Cloud 23 at the IHG on Deansgate (the former Hilton Hotel) in Manchester. A relatively clear evening allowed views over South Manchester and Cheshire from 23 floors up. Accompanying our views was Champagne Jules Camuset Brut NV. It is a blend of 15% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir and 55% pinot meunier. Comments from members were positive praising it as being light yet full flavoured.
The Annual General Meeting followed the Reception with the important business being concluded quickly, that being the appointment of Cmmdr Andy Bacon as our new Maître to follow Colin Smith, who will be stepping down next month. Cmmdr Bacon showed his natural aptitude for the job by only making a short address in response.
Our starter was Cured Loch Duart Salmon with pickled ginger, yuzu, wasabi ice cream and puffed rice. The salmon came from South Uist on the Outer Hebrides and contributed to a fabulous dish, particularly the wasabi ice cream with just the right amount of flavour so as not to overpower the remainder. This was accompanied by Clos des Lunes, Lune d’Argent 2022. This is a blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine was well matched to the fish; the presence of semillon very powerful with at least one member saying that he was going out to buy some of the Clos de Lunes.
Our main course was loin of Scottish venison with potato puree, grilled hispi, peach, shallot fritter and miso jus. The venison was excellent; the kitchen is to be commended for turning out so many portions perfectly cooked. It was accompanied by Chateau Pape-Clémant 2010, Grand Cru Classé de Graves, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. This, to most diners, was the star of the show. It had a good nose and was described as long, velvety and luscious and with one member saying it was one of the finest wines he’d drunk in recent years. There was some bottle variation with one bottle being tannic and another described as rich. But all enjoyed this wine. One table even went as far to reach for Roget, and exclaim that it was “yummy”.
The excellent cheese course included organic brie from the Cotswolds and Quicke’s Vintage Cheddar from Crediton in Devon. These were served with gooseberry & thyme chutney, sourdough wafer and radish. The cheese, and at least one table’s passionate debate as to the correct spelling of ‘radish’, was accompanied by Ch La Lagune 2010, 3ème Cr ClasséAOC Haut Médoc. This wine has 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. This wine was praised despite one faulty bottle and being full bodied and long, if possibly a little young.
Our dessert was accompanied by Barsac served from carafes, more of that later. The plates were a riot of colour and presentation. Gariguette strawberry and lime cremeux with black sesame and shiso (a mint herb) were a sight for sore eyes. Our Barsac was a perfect accompaniment, albeit there were uncorking problems on all of the bottles, hence resorting to carafes. Ch Coutet 2009 1ère Cru AOC Barsac is a blend of 75% Semillon, 23% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle. The combination of the Commanderie’s finest uncorkers and the smooth unflappable response of the waiting staff saw the wine served after a short delay. Once the crumbling cork problem was overcome the wine itself was excellent - deep colour, rich but with good balance and the classic marmalade and barley sugar flavour profile - medium long. One Commandeur did wonder whether the cork problem might have accelerated the aging process but if it had, this was not to our detriment on the night.
This was a fitting venue and evening to sign off on the five successful years of Maître Smith’s leadership of the Manchester Commanderie.
