As Commandeurs and guests assembled in the Trafford Suite of the Midland Hotel, we relaxed out of the world of Black Friday and the traffic-choked streets around the Manchester Christmas Market. We were greatly looking forward to an evening of innovative cooking and interesting wines
Vinothécaire Tim Edwards was unfortunately indisposed on the night but began our line up with Champagne Monopole, Heidsieck & Co., “Gold Top” Brut 2012. Depending on timing of arrival, some Commandeurs may have had a flat glass and had to await a top up to enjoy the wine at its best, when it was rich on the palate with good acidity. We found this aged wine a real step up from the more well known “Blue Top”.
Immediate Past Maître, Peter Russell, was presiding in the absence, on the other side of the world, of Maître Colin Smith. Régent Andy Bacon introduced two new Commandeurs for intronization: they were Lucy Houghton and Dave Golding; and, unusually, neither of them turned out to be a lawyer. They were welcomed warmly but had to take a certain risk. A lack of foresight meant the theatrical, blunt, short sword in the keeping of Maître Smith was unavailable and RégentBacon procured an alternative weapon, lethal in appearance. The ceremonies went off without injury but we began to imagine how future Maîtres might choose to exercise their authority. Would they prefer a sabre or a scimitar, the imprecise power of a two-handed sword or the precise attack of an épée?
Then, suddenly, we were horrified at how these two nefarious Commandeurs might fare on the way home and conjured up the next day’s headline:
(Conseil is reminded of Section 1 of the Prevention of Crime Act 1953 and, hopefully, good sense will prevail on the return of Maître Smith)
Before dinner commenced we remembered solemnly but fondly the founding Commandeurs of La Commanderie de Bordeaux à Manchester, especially Commandeur Brian Blackwell, who died recently. May he rest in peace.
Following Grace, we sat down to a Salmon and Cod Mosaic with Avocado and Dill Puree, Nori, Yuzu Gel and Coral Tuile. The dish set the pace for beautiful presentation over the evening and, here, for innovative combinations of flavour. It was enjoyed with Château de Chantegrive Blanc, Cuvée Caroline, Graves 2016. This wine is well known to many Commandeurs, also Members of the Wine Society, and many like to decant it to reveal its more intricate aromas and flavours. That was not possible on the night but it certainly lived up to its WS description of “nutty on the nose and wearing its oak so well”. The dish and the wine were well matched and much appreciated.
The main course was Rare Breed Pork Fillet, wrapped in Serrano Ham, and Braised Pork Belly Pavé, Swiss Chard, Butternut Fondant, Rosti Potato, Crispy Pork Puffs and Sauce Robert. The presentation was superb, showcasing this time more familiar elements but in refined style. The generous cut of fillet was pink. We drank Château Saint-Pierre, 4èmeCru, St Julien, 2014, more of which shortly.
Cornish Yarg and Maida Vale followed, accompanied by a Pear Jelly and Walnut Crackers. The sweetness of the jelly went well with two lovely, mature cheeses. These elements were a great success. Some would have preferred bread to the intensity of the very crisp and dark crackers. We drank Château Cantemerle, 5ème Cru, Haut Médoc, 2009.
While most Commandeurs enjoyed both red wines, there was sadly some bottle variation.
Your correspondent was impressed by the Saint-Pierre which had an intensity still of youthful colour, good oak and still plenty of fruit in the balance, unobtrusive tannins, and was beginning to develop the tertiary elements of older claret. The table reviewing on the night, however, had not enjoyed it, citing overwhelming and harsh tannins. We cannot have had similar servings.
Conversely, the reviewing table loved the Cantemerle, the prettiest of properties and, when on song, one of the prettiest of wines. Your correspondent’s experience was nothing like that and he made the mistake of topping up rather than requesting a fresh glass. Consequently, he cannot give any worthwhile appraisal. Others on the table had a similar experience; but some were luckier, believing the wine still had some way to go. Later research shows that the reviewing table’s wonderful experience is far more typical. For instance, Jane Anson uprated her score by a point to 94 in March 2025:
“Exceptionally silky tannic frame, this is gourmet and mouthwatering, delivering raspberry and blackberry studded with white pepper, cedar and campfire smoke. Softly spoken and welcoming, not the most powerful 2009 but that is the charm of Cantemerle, with hints of Margaux typicity even if the estate is just on the outskirts of the appellation. Understated with a long finish, touch of cigar box and tobacco. …”
And then we were on to our pudding - Textures of Winter Pear: Caramelised Pear, Jelly, Confit & Custard. Superb! We could have eaten two or three each and drank Château Rieussec, 1er Cru, Sauternes 2009. Bordering d’Yquem, it is often considered rich and exotic. Unlucky with the Cantemerle, this was your writer’s favourite wine of the night. The smell was of intense and lovely oranges – definitely not marmalade; the palate too was predominantly of oranges and butterscotch; in the dimmed light of the Trafford Suite against the table cloth, the wine even began to look orange as the end of the evening drew near.
Along the way, the Acting Maître presented gifts and well-earned congratulations on our behalf to the chefs and front of house staff. It has been said before that the Midland Hotel can elevate banqueting to fine dining: it pulled it off yet again. However, it would not have been achieved without the abiding attention to detail of Maître Echanson Nicola McLoughlin.
And so we wandered off through the foyer and into the winter’s night. What became of “Master” Russell and “Regent” Bacon? We believe they made it home without challenge but will buy a copy of the Manchester Evening News just to check it.
Commander Rowley
Bordeaux, toujours Bordeaux!
